Bibi Graetz

A painter by training, Bibi Graetz came to wine in the late 1990s at his family's hilltop home in Fiesole, above Florence, and set about proving that old-vine Sangiovese, Canaiolo, and Colorino from forgotten hillside parcels could stand with Tuscany's grandest names. His flagship Testamatta — "crazy head" — and the single-parcel Colore are built from tiny lots of very old vines scattered from Fiesole to the island of Giglio, vinified without fuss and bottled under his own vivid labels. The wines are Tuscan to the bone: bright, perfumed, and defiantly individual.