Bodegas R. López de Heredia

López de Heredia has been making Rioja the same way since 1877, and the wine world has finally caught back up. In the family's mold-blackened cellars in Haro, the wines of Viña Tondonia — the great vineyard in a bend of the Ebro — spend years in old American oak and years more in bottle, released only when the fourth generation, led by María José López de Heredia, judges them ready. Nothing here is modern: whites and rosados are aged like reds, the cooperage is made in-house, and a decade-old release counts as young. What emerges is Rioja at its most profound — ethereal, savory, impossibly complex — and the estate's refusal to change a single habit has made it the most revered traditional address in Spain.