Chateau Lafite Rothschild Premier Cru Classe, Pauillac 1983

This is Lafite. Prune and spices, with a cedar and wet tobacco character on the nose. Even tea. Full and rich with a dark China tea and cedar character. Just a hint of chocolate. Opens in the glass like a genie. Amazing.

The 1983 Lafite-Rothschild is one of my favorite vintages of the decade, and this bottle, served blind, replicates its showing at their 150th anniversary vertical. However, at first, it feels a little disjointed on the nose, but it coheres in the glass, offering lovely blackberry fruit, hints of pain d'épices, black truffle and meat juices. The palate is beautifully balanced with fine-boned tannins, tobacco and morels. There's a bit more white pepper on the finish of this bottle, though persistent as ever. What a wonderful Lafite-Rothschild that, at 40 years, continues to go strong. Tasted blind at dinner at a nearby Pauillac château.

Finally, the 1983 Lafite is beginning to shed its tannin. The wine exhibits a deep ruby/garnet color with only a slight lightening at the edge. The intoxicatingly perfumed nose of lead pencil, pain grille, red and black fruits, minerals, and roasted herbs is provocative. In the mouth, this wine displays considerable body for a Lafite, plenty of power, and a fleshy, rich, sweet mid-palate. Long, elegant, plump, and surprisingly fleshy, this outstanding example of Lafite seems largely forgotten given the number of high quality vintages during the golden decade of the eighties. Anticipated maturity: Now-2030. Last tasted 3/97