Chateau Lafleur, Pomerol 1985

The 1985 Lafleur is a vintage that I have tasted several times, though never from larger format. The aromatics transfix with copious brambly red berry fruit, wild hedgerow, roasted chestnut and Earl Grey scents that cohere wondrously in the glass. At 40 years old, this definitely has plenty of vigor. The palate is supremely well balanced and very harmonious, offering vivid red fruit laced with cedar and white pepper. Fleshier than the 1986 (as expected) with a tender but very persistent finish, this reaffirms how Jacques and Sylvie Guinaudeau hit the ground running with their first vintage. Tasted from ex-château magnum at Kate & Kon's 40-year vertical in Austria.

This is one of the greatest wines of the vintage, possibly the slowest-to-mature wine of the vintage, and potentially its longest lived. Tasted next to Petrus twice in 2002, the 1985 Lafleur seemed like it came from a different vintage. It was not herbal like the Petrus, far denser, the color more saturated than the Petrus, and more body, volume, and intensity than the Petrus. In fact, the Petrus looked like an emaciated, herbaceous, thin cousin to Lafleur. This wine is very special, with notes of figs, plums, minerals, violets, black raspberries, and licorice. Still a dense saturated ruby/purple with full body, great purity, and fabulous fruit, this is an immense vintage for Lafleur, and certainly ranks one of the great wines this small micro-estate has ever produced. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2030. Last tasted, 8/02.