Chateau d'Yquem Premier Cru Superieur, Sauternes 1986

There is no other wine in the world like it, and there is no other luxury wine that can possibly justify its price as much as Yquem. The remarkable amount of painstaking labor necessary to produce the nectar known as Yquem is almost impossible to comprehend. This is a fascinating effort. With greater evidence of botrytis than the colossal 1983, but less power and alcohol, the 1986 Yquem tastes reminiscent of the 1975, only more precocious, as well as more concentrated. Several highly respected Bordeaux negociants who are Yquem enthusiasts claim the 1986 Yquem is the greatest wine produced at the property since the legendary 1937. Its enthralling bouquet of pineapples, sauteed hazelnuts, vanillin, and ripe apricots is breathtaking. Compellingly concentrated, the breadth as well as depth of flavor seemingly know no limits. This full-bodied, powerful, yet impeccably balanced Yquem should provide memorable drinking for 40-55 more years. Like the 1983, this is another winemaking tour de force. Anticipated maturity: 2000-2040. Last tasted, 4/91.

The 1986 Yquem is a great Sauternes on paper, though bottles tend to be a little variable. You never quite know what to expect. This is definitely one of the better examples. Vibrant on the nose, it has the same effervescent bouquet that I encountered four years ago, with pure honey, saffron, yellow flowers and touches of barley sugar, all beautifully defined and focused. The palate is elegant with exquisite balance and that same racy acidity which imparts so much tension. Revealing orange pith, mandarin and ginger towards the precise and bright finish, this is a fabulous showing.