Chateau La Mission Haut-Brion Cru Classe, Pessac-Leognan 1989

Both La Mission-Haut-Brion and Haut-Brion hit home runs in this vintage, which did not produce as many profound wines as the Bordeaux publicity machine suggested. 1989, the 200th anniversary of the French revolution, was an incredibly hot year (surpassed only by 1990 and 2003). Even from barrel the seamless 1989 La Mission revealed a special elixir aspect, tasting like it had been designed by Chanel. It still possesses a blue/purple color with only a hint of garnet creeping in, and the explosive aromatics offer up notes of licorice, creme de cassis, blueberry liqueur, smoky barbecue meats, truffles and graphite. If that’s not enough to get one salivating, the palate has never disappointed either. Full-bodied with extraordinary opulence as well as sweet, well-integrated, velvety tannins, this fresh, lively, blockbuster La Mission appears to be one of those rare wines that never goes through a closed, unfriendly stage. It has been a compelling, multidimensional effort from barrel, in its infancy, and as it heads into late adolescence. A remarkable tour de force in winemaking, it is one of the all-time profound La Mission-Haut-Brions. Anticipated maturity: now-2050.

The 1989 La Mission Haut-Brion can surpass even Haut-Brion these days, but on this occasion, juxtaposed against its sibling, it must accept a silver medal. That's not to infer it is nothing less than a brilliant Pessac. Taking time to open, it has an elevated bouquet with blackberry, wild strawberry, white pepper and a hint of licorice. The palate is powerful and dense, not as precise or as pixelated as the finest examples, yet fans out with joie-de-vivre on the finish and a tang of black olive on the aftertaste. Awesome. Tasted at Woo Cheong Tea House.