Cos d'Estournel 2eme Cru Classe, Saint-Estephe 1996

A brilliant year for Left Bank Bordeaux. This was stubborn in its youth and took time to open, but now stands as one of the great all-time vintages of Cos, in my opinion. It delivers still, at 25 years old, just utterly delicious, with complex slate, pencil lead, graphite, undergrowth, black truffle flavours and a crushed-mint finish. It is still juicy, with perfectly integrated fine tannins and a ton of personality. 65% new oak.

Saturated deep ruby. Ineffable aromas of black fruits, minerals, licorice and Havana tobacco. Rich, dense and thick; powerful but harmonious. Layered texture over a strong backbone. Very long on the palate, with thoroughly ripe, noble cabernet tannins. Superb.

The 1996 Cos d'Estournel seems to have exaggerated its Pauillac-like aromatics since I last tasted it, with strong pencil lead/graphite aromas that threaten to dominate the black fruit. The palate is quite refined. Though this old-school Saint-Estèphe has some hard edges to contend with, there is plenty of sapidity and real depth towards the finish. It tingles with black pepper on the aftertaste. Excellent. Tasted at the château and a week later at the WIMPS lunch in London.