Domaine Jean Louis Chave, Hermitage, Rouge 2003

I’ve rated the 2003 Hermitage perfect on numerous occasions, and while sound bottles are still as good as it gets, I’ve also had some tired bottles here in the States, so provenance is critical with this vintage. Still youthfully colored yet just starting to show some maturity in its aromatics of blackberries, dark currants, licorice, spice box, and leather, this fabulously textured, opulent 2003 hits the palate with full-bodied richness, a wealth of sweet tannins, and a monster of a finish. Clearing 15% alcohol (and I think the pH is probably around 4), it should be a required tasting for all those touting the low alcohol nonsense. This singular beauty can be drunk today with incredible pleasure or cellared for another two decades, if you’re so inclined.

Chave's 2003 Hermitage, like the most successful Burgundies from that anomalous vintage, somehow retains a sense of mineral freshness that balances this wine's remarkable concentration and massive fruit. Tasted at the domaine, it's even floral and perfumed on the nose, an incredible feat when faced with that summer's implacable heat. Full-bodied, massively rich and decadently creamy in texture, it delivers waves of mixed red and black fruits that avoid any overtly raisiny character, finishing vibrant, peppery and long.

Jean-Louis Chave seems increasingly confident at the helm of this legendary domaine. We spent a bit of time discussing the 2018 vintage, which he rates highly. "The wines are not really jammy. They're almost as ripe as 2003, but for some reason the grapes weren't raisiny," he said. "The vines never really stopped. In mid-August, we had 40 millimeters of rain—perfect timing. And at the end of August another little rain." Hermitage shines this year. "In Hermitage, you can push things to the limit and still be OK," Chave said. "Even when it's extreme, the grands terroirs are still the grands terroirs." Looking at recent vintages, Chave summarized the similarities as follows: 2015 he compares to 1990; 2016 to 2010; 2017 to 2000. As for 2018, said Chave, "It wouldn't be right to compare 2018 and 2003. The ripeness is extreme, but at the end, they're very different wines." Hermitage aside, Chave has spent much of his time in recent years working on his vineyards in Saint Joseph. He said he thinks of Saint Joseph as a wine for bistros rather than haute cuisine, but Chave's Saint Joseph's have quickly progressed beyond that in terms of quality (and, unfortunately, price).

"Now we take the monster out of his cage," Jean-Louis warned me before pouring this. Inky, almost black in color. Elemental, hugely concentrated and powerful on the nose, which slowly unveils aromas of dark cherry liqueur, blackberry, cassis, espresso and a deep note of sweet tobacco. Impossibly rich and dense on the palate (the yields in 2003 were off by two-thirds), showing myriad dark fruit and bitter chocolate flavors, with a suggestion of tapenade and an intense licorice quality. Remarkably, this takes on a mineral tone on the finish, which has the effect of further drawing out the amazingly powerful finish.