Fonseca, Vintage Port 2007

The 2007 Fonseca is maturing nicely, with a perfumed, high toned, rich bouquet of macerated black cherries, blueberry, creme de cassis and vanilla. The palate is very harmonious with plush dark cherry fruit, fresh fig, salted licorice and a supple, rounded, spicy finish that delivers wonderful purity and length. This is a sexy Fonseca, perhaps more generous and alluring than the 2009 – a quintessential Fonseca that should peak in 15-20 years time.

Deep bright ruby. Subdued black fruits and bitter chocolate on the slightly medicinal nose, with hints of fig and maple syrup. Very ripe and rich, but without the normal mid-palate lift or distinction of this port. Sweet black cherry, dark berry and spice flavors lack ultimate power and thrust. I don't sense a hidden dimension here. Finishes with serious ripe tannins and very good but not outstanding length. This was actually the best of four different bottles I tasted; one of the others showed more tired and high-toned aromas and another finished with drier tannins. Perhaps I have simply been unlucky with this wine, but the 2007 Fonseca appears to be disappointing in the context of the vintage. (Kobrand, Inc., New York NY