Chateau Beausejour Duffau-Lagarrosse Premier Grand Cru Classe B, Saint-Emilion G_ 2008

The 2008 Beauséjour Héritiers Duffau-Lagarrosse is evolving into one of the standout wines of the vintage. From a modest showing in barrel, it seemed to improve when I last tasted it in 2012 and now at a decade old, it has upped the ante further. Intense wild strawberry and blackberry notes struck through with minerals and graphite, all beautifully defined and immediately take you aback and yet you know there is much more to come. The palate is very well balanced with a firm but not imposing structure. The acidity is beautifully judged and it counterbalances the impressive fruit concentration, whilst there is a killer sorbet-like freshness on the finish that leaves the mouth tingling. Sometimes this Saint Émilion can surpass your expectations and whilst the 2008 might not be as spectacular as the 1990, it is one of the hidden gems of the vintage. (Tasted at the château.)

The closed, austere 2008 represents the old school philosophy of winemaking employed at Beausejour-Duffau before Nicolas Thienpont and Stephane Derenoncourt controlled the viticulture and winemaking starting in 2009. A 21,000-bottle blend of 70% Merlot, 26% Cabernet Franc and 4% Cabernet Sauvignon, the 2008 exhibits high tannin, medium body and an impressively elegant style. It is already revealing the nobility of this exquisite vineyard. However, the wine does not possess the extra gear of aromatic and flavor dimensions to merit an outstanding review. Give it 2-3 years of cellaring and drink it over the following 15-20.