Chateau Branon, Rouge, Pessac-Leognan 2009

This magnificent, dense plum/purple-colored Pessac-Leognan reveals notes of scorched earth, burning embers, blackberries and truffles. Composed of Merlot and Cabernet Franc from a vineyard gorgeously situated between Malartic Lagraviere and Haut-Bailly, it possesses full-bodied power, a stunningly intense, voluptuous, layered mouthfeel and abundant levels of fruit, glycerin and tannin. The 2009 ranks alongside the magnificent 2000, which is aging at a glacial pace. Unfortunately, proprietress Helene Garcin only produces around 500 cases of this somewhat cult-ish Pessac-Leognan. Anticipated maturity: 2018-2040.

A wine with a strong initial score back during En Primeur, making it interesting to retaste because it may well be lurking in many cellars! It's held up well, a little soft through the mid palate, but this has plenty of spice, and dark brambled fruit character, edges of campfire smoke and chocolate shavings. No need to wait.

The 2009 Branon has a pure bouquet with black cherries, bilberry and just a touch of boot polish. It feels well defined with nicely integrated oak. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin, juicy and succulent with a nicely detailed, quite peppery finish with a persistent aftertaste. Based on this performance I might well have under-estimated this Pessac-Léognan. Tasted blind at Farr Vintners’ 2009 Bordeaux tasting.

(14.5% alcohol; 100% new oak) Ruby-red. Captivating strawberry and violet aromas speak of the cabernet franc component, but there is also a noticeable and clever use of new oak here. Dense, supple and luscious in the mouth, with rich flavors of red cherry, red berries and vanilla that last and last. Finishes with light peppery and mineral qualities. This big, showy wine has the balance to avoid coming across as exaggerated, even if some purists might object to the amount of new oak lavished on it. This extremely well-made wine should age effortlessly.

(14.5% alcohol; 100% new oak) Ruby-red. Captivating strawberry and violet aromas speak of the cabernet franc component, but there is also a noticeable and clever use of new oak here. Dense, supple and luscious in the mouth, with rich flavors of red cherry, red berries and vanilla that last and last. Finishes with light peppery and mineral qualities. This big, showy wine has the balance to avoid coming across as exaggerated, even if some purists might object to the amount of new oak lavished on it. This extremely well-made wine should age effortlessly.