Chateau Magdelaine Premier Grand Cru Classe B, Saint-Emilion Grand Cru 2009

You feel the slightly higher alcohol in the rich mouthfeel, a reflection of the warmer conditions of the vintage, but the limestone soils ensure the acidity is vibrant and balanced, and this gorgeous wine still delivers the understated ease, together with white truffles, tobacco leaf, mandarin peel and oyster shell salinity that Magdelaine expresses in every vintage, here with a bigger kick of damson, red cherry and kirsh. Confident but supple tannins that promise a long life ahead. You can drink this now, or hold. Eric Murisasco winemaker, 50% new oak.

A property that has largely been replanted over the last 25 years, the 2009 is one of the best the firm of Jean-Pierre Moueix has yet released from this estate. Eighty percent of this vineyard sits on the limestone plateau and 20% on the hillsides, and the 2009 displays a classic confiture of black cherries, some crushed rocks and spring flowers in a full-bodied, yet at the same time, ethereal and rather elegant style. The wine has gorgeous fruit purity, a broad, luscious texture, and more density and richness than one normally finds in this somewhat finesse-styled wine, which seems to have achieved more depth and potential in 2009. This should be drinkable in 5-6 years and keep for 25 or more.

Ripe plum, with hints of sanded oak. Full-bodied, with a pretty core of raspberry and blueberry character. Silky and pretty. Balanced and subtle, yet intense. Try after 2017.

Medium-deep ruby-purple. Cassis, violet, licorice and mint aromas are lifted by sweet spices and an intense calcaire note. Moderately dense and quite fruit-driven, showing lovely mouthcoating breadth to its red berry, dark cherry, sweet spice and cool mineral flavors; remains just this side of peppery. Best today on the very long and nuanced finish, which features fine-grained tannins, a restrained sweetness and captivating vibrancy. This sleek wine boasts sneaky concentration, and is among the suavest and most refined wines of the vintage. It should offer early accessible but also age extremely well.

Medium-deep ruby-purple. Cassis, violet, licorice and mint aromas are lifted by sweet spices and an intense calcaire note. Moderately dense and quite fruit-driven, showing lovely mouthcoating breadth to its red berry, dark cherry, sweet spice and cool mineral flavors; remains just this side of peppery. Best today on the very long and nuanced finish, which features fine-grained tannins, a restrained sweetness and captivating vibrancy. This sleek wine boasts sneaky concentration, and is among the suavest and most refined wines of the vintage. It should offer early accessible but also age extremely well.