Henri Bonneau, Chateauneuf-du-Pape, Reserve Celestins 2009

The 2009 Châteauneuf Du Pape Reserve Des Celestins is certainly mature, yet it still has at least another decade of prime drinking followed by a gradual decline thereafter. A semi-opaque ruby hue with just a kiss of bricking at the rim, it has an essence of Provence-like perfume of sweet black cherries, roasted garrigue, licorice, and herbes de Provence. With full-bodied richness, a supple, layered, seamless mouthfeel, integrated tannins, and beautiful overall balance, it's not in the massive, concentrated style of the 2010 and shows the sun-kissed, complex, incredibly seductive style of the 2009 vintage beautifully. I followed this bottle over the course of an evening, and it needs about an hour of air to show at its best. Drink: 2025-2039.

Dark ruby. Pungent, expansive aromas of black and blue fruits, licorice, incense and violet, with a zesty spicy overtone. Shows outstanding depth and power, with potent dark fruit compote flavors and an enlivening jolt of minerality adding lift and bite. Closes sweet, sappy and extremely long, leaving sexy floral pastille and spicecake notes behind. Fans of Bonneau's wines need to start hoarding their nickels and Benjamins for this one.