La Mondotte Premier Grand Cru Classe B, Saint-Emilion Grand Cru 2009

Perfect, the 2009 La Mondotte boasts an inky/black/purple color as well as sumptuous notes of incense, graphite, licorice, black cherries, blackberries, cedar and forest floor. It is extraordinarily thick and voluptuous with a cool climate minerality that gives the wine an uplift and freshness that is surprising in view of its massive fruit level and high extract. The tannins are abundant, but sweet and well-integrated, as are the acidity, alcohol and wood components. An infant at present, this 2009 requires 6-8 years of cellaring and should keep for three decades.

Plum pie, with hints of espresso, blueberries and orange peel on the nose. Full body, with velvety tannins and a fruity finish. Wonderful depth of fruit and balance to this young wine. Perhaps the best ever from here. Try in 2018.

Bright, saturated ruby. Slightly high-toned aromas of blueberry, black raspberry, mocha, violet and minerals. Wonderfully intense and vibrant; dense and seamless without being heavy. The blackberry and violet flavors are energized by a tactile, saline minerality. Remarkably plush, sweet and deep wine, with utterly suave tannins and outstanding palate-staining length. Has huge ripe tannins for extended aging but seems easier to taste than this wine normally is at this early stage owing to its sheer baby fat. Interestingly, I tasted this wine in the same flight as Magdelaine: the Mondotte came across as riper and more massive but both bottles say 14.5% alcohol on the label.

(80% merlot and 20% cabernet franc cropped at 17 hectoliters per hectare; 100% new oak) Glass-staining inky purple. Intense, heady aromas of dark plum, blackberry jam, candied violet and graphite are a bit too ripe for me. Big and creamy on entry, this boasts terrific palate presence to the luscious, very pure flavors of blackberry and plum complicated by subtler notes of cedar, graphite and ground coffee. The long finish features very good acidity, which nicely extends the ripe fruit and oak flavors. I love this wine's pristine flavors, but this year I noticed its 14.5% alcohol. Clearly, though, it will have many admirers: those who like outsized, superrich wine will no doubt score this version of La Mondotte even higher than I do. The merlot was harvested on October 6 and the cabernet on October 13.