Le Dome, Saint-Emilion Grand Cru 2009

One of the most distinctive wines made in Bordeaux, Le Dome has one of the highest percentages of Cabernet Franc of any claret I can think of. Composed of 80% Cabernet Franc and 20% Merlot, it exhibits a certain delicacy and elegance (due to the Cabernet Franc component) in addition to resounding power, concentration, depth and multidimensional personality. Black/purple to the rim, it offers strikingly intense notes of spring flowers, raspberries, mulberries and wood smoke, medium to full body, sweet tannin and a cunning intensity and texture that suggest finesse and delicacy. However, the wine’s richness, length and lingering depth build incrementally in this exceptional St.-Emilion. It will be drinkable in 4-5 years and should age for two decades or more. This is Jonathan Malthus’ finest wine to date.

(an 80/20 blend of cabernet franc and merlot) Deep, inky ruby-purple. Complex, very deep aromas of fresh blackcurrant, vanilla, licorice and sweet spices. Dense, sweet and tactile, with rich, vibrant black fruit flavors nicely complicated by sweet spices and a touch of sexy new oak. Finishes very long, smooth and full-bodied, with chewy mouthcoating but ripe tannins and a persistent note of floral black cherry. This is the richest and fullest of the '09 offerings from Jonathan Maltus, and much better than the 2008 version. While the merlot was picked on October 12, and the cabernet franc on October 14, neither one, amazingly, smells or tastes of overripeness. But this serious wine will need at least four or five years of cellaring upon its release. A great example of an intelligent garage wine made with people's palates-not just headlines-in mind.

Loads of blueberries, with hints of wet earth and fresh mushrooms. Full-bodied, with layers of ripe tannins and juicy fruit. Goes on for minutes. Best wine from this estate ever. Try after 2018.

(an 80/20 blend of cabernet franc and merlot) Deep, inky ruby-purple. Complex, very deep aromas of fresh blackcurrant, vanilla, licorice and sweet spices. Dense, sweet and tactile, with rich, vibrant black fruit flavors nicely complicated by sweet spices and a touch of sexy new oak. Finishes very long, smooth and full-bodied, with chewy mouthcoating but ripe tannins and a persistent note of floral black cherry. This is the richest and fullest of the '09 offerings from Jonathan Maltus, and much better than the 2008 version. While the merlot was picked on October 12, and the cabernet franc on October 14, neither one, amazingly, smells or tastes of overripeness. But this serious wine will need at least four or five years of cellaring upon its release. A great example of an intelligent garage wine made with people's palates-not just headlines-in mind.