Le Pin, Pomerol 2009

Medium garnet colored, the 2009 Le Pin comes charging out of the glass with exuberant notions of baked red and black cherries, mulberries and warm plums with touches of star anise, cigar box and lavender plus wafts of menthol and fragrant soil. Full-bodied and boldly fruited, it has tons of vibrant red and black fruit layers with wonderful mineral and floral sparks throughout the long, plushly textured finish.

Voluptuous and silky, this is deceptively soft and open yet with singing acidity flowing through it, giving it grip. It's extremely ripe and generous in fruit, with notes of ground coffee and cappuccino and great persistency. It manages to combine hedonistic appeal with thought-provoking moments, demanding that you slow down rather than gulping the whole glass. It manages to seduce without overpowering, but is certainly signature Le Pin.

The 2009 Le Pin has an attractive bouquet with scents of black cherries, truffle, orange rind and hints of pain d’épices developing. I appreciate the definition here, the sense of control, the terroir coming through as much as the growing season. The palate is medium-bodied with svelte tannin, a fine bead of acidity, spicier than the last time I encountered this vintage. Gentle grip and fine tension towards the bay leaf and white peppery finish. This finishes in some style and it should age with grace. Excellent. Tasted at BI Wines & Spirits' Ten Years On tasting.