M. Chapoutier, Hermitage, Le Meal Rouge 2009

Even inkier in color than the 2010, the 2009 Ermitage le Meal is as good as Hermitage gets. Locked and loaded with phenomenal notes of jammy black raspberries, creme de cassis, crushed violets, smoked earth and spice, it's thick and unctuous on the palate, with incredible density, a huge mid-palate and a layered, multi-dimensional, seamless, elegant texture that just keeps you coming back and begging for another sip. More hedonistic and voluptuous than the 2010, it should still evolve for just as long, yet have even a broader drink window.

Opaque purple. A highly perfumed bouquet displays dark berry preserves, smoked meat, licorice pastille and dark chocolate, with a slow-building violet quality. Broad, palate-staining blackberry and cassis flavors are lifted by a smoky mineral note and complicated by floral and Indian spice qualities. Tannins build with air and add shape to a bright, penetrating finish.