Verite, Le Desir, Sonoma County 2009

Bright dark ruby. Distinctly wild aromas of blackberry, minerals, game and leather, plus a whiff of Band-Aid. Dense, powerful, Cabernet Franc-dominated wine with vibrant, downright penetrating black fruit and licorice flavors. Fairly thick but still tight in the middle palate, with flavors similar to the aromas. Finishes with slightly edgy, building tannins that saturate the front teeth and incisors. Twenty-four hours in the recorked bottle brought a somewhat plusher texture and more breadth, but the leathery quality still impinged on the wine's fruit, limiting its complexity. While the wine's superb density of grain is undeniable, there's ultimately a bit too much Old World funk for me. I tasted two similar bottles. (14.5% alcohol)

The 2009 Le Desir is a blend of 74% Cabernet Franc, 13% Merlot, 9% Cabernet Sauvignon and 4% Malbec. Deep garnet in color, it possesses a maturing, flamboyant nose of plum preserves, mulberries and Black Forest cake with underlying cassis, pencil shavings, tilled soil and fallen leaves scents, plus wafts of leather and tobacco. Firm, medium to full-bodied and densely packed with taut, evolving fruit, it has loads of mineral sparks and a long, chewy finish. 1,500 cases were made.