Domaine de la Vieille Julienne, Chateauneuf-du-Pape, Reserve 2010

There are 500 cases of the 2010 Chateauneuf du Pape Reserve. At 16.4% natural alcohol, the pleasure police will no doubt suggest this wine is hot and out of balance. However, nothing could be further from the truth as there is not a trace of heat in this modern day legend in traditional Chateauneuf du Pape. Yields were under 20 hectoliters per hectare, and the vines utilized for the Reserve were planted in 1904. Virtually all Grenache with the balance probably including Syrah and Mourvedre, this is a field blend. An inky/purple color is accompanied by notes of raspberries, blueberries and blackberries. There is a sappy precision to its formidably endowed, massive mouthfeel. Sadly, this profound Chateauneuf du Pape is nearly impossible to find. It should evolve easily for 20-25 years.

As with the Les Hauts-Lieux from the same vintage, the 2010 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Réserve needs time to open up. After half an hour in the glass, the magic starts, building pronounced aromas of strawberry compote, rosewater, violets, dates and crushed rocks. Spicy licorice and suggestions of garrigue add more layers. Complex and serious, the 2010 boasts outstanding freshness and keeps its elevated flavor concentration well in check. Winding down with a refined, savory and remarkably long finish, the 2010 Réserve ranks in tandem with the finest examples that this Cuvée has ever seen.