Domaine du Pegau, Chateauneuf-du-Pape, Cuvee Reservee Rouge 2010

Looking at the 2010s and a brilliant vintage for Laurence, the 2010 Chateauneuf du Pape offers up classic Pegau aromas and flavors of ripe dark fruits, garrigue, cured meats, tobacco leaf, saddle leather and hints of game. Full-bodied and beautifully concentrated, it offers a seamless, layered profile on the palate with thrilling mid-palate depth, sweet, yet substantial tannin, and a blockbuster finish that stays fresh and beautifully focused. Quite polished by this estate's standards, it nevertheless screams southern France and I doubt it's possible to have too much of this beauty in the cellar. It will absolutely thrill over the coming 2-3 decades. Drink 2016-2030.

Composed of 80% Grenache, 12% Syrah, 4% Mourvedre and 4% miscellaneous varietals, the 2010 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee Reservee tips the scales at 14.8% alcohol, which is slightly lower than the 2009. It reveals a deep ruby/purple color along with wonderful sweetness and lots of roasted meat characteristics intermixed with notions of herbs, forest floor, kirsch and black fruits.

The tannins are surprisingly soft, the wine has great intensity and a blacker fruit profile than even the 2009. It looks to be another superb effort that should slightly eclipse the 2009. Like the 1989 and 1990 Cuvee Reservees, it may be impossible to pick a favorite between the 2010 and 2009. As I recall, Paul has always favored the 1990, Laurence the 1989.

One of the bastions of traditionalism in Chateauneuf du Pape is Domaine de Pegau, long owned by the Feraud family, and now run by the charming, talented Laurence, who was exceptionally well-schooled by her father, Paul. This nearly 50-acre estate fashions some of the longest-lived, most interesting wines of the appellation.

The success they have enjoyed with their estate wines has allowed the Ferauds to branch out with a small negociant operation that includes selections Laurence makes through her contacts in the southern Rhone as well as wines she co-producers with another Chateauneuf du Pape name well-known for high quality, Andre Brunel.