Domaine Pierre Usseglio, Chateauneuf-du-Pape, de Mon Aieul 2010

The 2010 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee de Mon Aieul is considered by the Usseglios to be their greatest to date. The inky colored 2010 is 100% Grenache fermented with 30% stems and aged in a combination of older barrels and foudre. More focused and precise than the '07 and even darker in color), yet still with massive concentration and depth, it offers deep, rich notes of blackberries, cassis, ground herbs, pepper and crushed rocks. Full-bodied, thick and layered on the palate, it never puts a foot wrong, has fabulous purity and a blockbuster finish. It needs 3-4 years of cellaring, but will have 20-25 years of longevity.

In total contrast, the 2010 Chateauneuf du Pape Mon Aieul has intense blueberry, black raspberry and lavender notes that jump from the glass of this opaque purple-colored wine. It is 100% Grenache in 2010, all coming from three of their finest vineyards – Les Grandes Serres in the southern part of the appellation, planted in 1926, La Crau, which of course is the famous sector in the eastern part of Chateauneuf du Pape and an early maturing one, and Guigasse, which is in the northerly sector, next to the sandy soils of the lieu-dit known as Pignan, as well as Grand Pierre.

This wine tips the scales at about 16.5% alcohol, finishes completely dry and has no heat. The yields were a preposterous 16 hectoliters per hectare. I wouldn’t be surprised if this impressive wine jumps a few points in score, as it is still primary, backward and super-concentrated. It will need 3-5 years of cellaring and then drink well for at least two decades.

One of the top estates in Chateauneuf du Pape is that of the two brothers Thierry and Jean-Pierre Usseglio. Their cellars are just north of the village, adjacent to the walls of the ruins of the pope’s palace. They have nearly 60 acres under vine, and make three cuvees of red wines in the top vintages. Their classic or traditional cuvee is made from a blend of mostly Grenache, with some Syrah, Cinsault and Mourvedre.

Their mostly unoaked, tank-fermented and -aged Mon Aieul comes from very old vines about 85 years of age) and tiny yields, while their cuvee Des Deux Freres leans in a slightly more modern direction for Chateauneuf du Pape, with 50% of it now aged in small barrels, 20% in tank, and 30% in 600-liter demi-muids.