Elio Grasso, Barolo, Gavarini Chiniera 2010

The 2010 Barolo Gavarini Vigna Chiniera is a wine of breathtaking purity and finesse. The year that comes to mind is 2008, but the 2010 has a more classic sense of structure, tannic cut and intensity. Bright red berries, crushed rocks, mint and dried flowers are some of the many notes that linger in the glass. Sweet floral notes begin to emerge over time but the 2010 is a reticent, austere wine built for the cellar. Razor-precise veins of acidity and minerality support the brilliant, crystalline finish. This is an especially thrilling Gavarini, but readers are going to have to be patient. The 2010 is a wine to buy and forget about for a decade, perhaps longer. Hints of the 1989 and its extraordinary perfume linger on the finish. Gianluca Grasso adds that for the first time in 2010 he had the courage to pick this fruit a few days later than normal.

The 2010 Barolo Gavarini Chiniera is an amazing wine born 430 meters above sea level from white limestone and sandy soils. The elegance expressed by the wine is unforgettable. It opens to a pretty garnet color with ethereal tones of licorice and balsam herb with sharp, delineated contours. This vineyard is usually harvested later than the others, so the growing cycle is extra long and steady. The wine is silky, finessed and profound. Drink: 2018-2040.