Isole e Olena, Cepparello, IGT 2010

Isole e Olena's 2010 Cepparello is magnificent. In particular, I admire the way the wine fleshes out in all directions, with seemingly endless layers of dark, mineral-infused berry, plum and pomegranate notes. A primal wine in need of significant cellaring, the 2010 is easily one of the highlights of the year. Bright, saline notes support the precise finish. Today, the 2010 is naturally quite backward and undeveloped, but it should be a gem in another 5-10 years. This is an especially dark, structured Cepparello built for the cellar. The 2010 brightens up with time in the glass, but it remains one of the darker, more brooding wines made in the estate's history.

The extraordinary 2010 Cepparello (100% Sangiovese aged up to 18 months in oak, one-third new) presents fine nuances of red berry, cherry, spice, tar, licorice, wet earth and forest leaf. The bouquet is very elegant but this wine delivers power too with tight structure that immediately wraps around the palate. Somewhere in the crossroads between tradition and modernity, Cepparello is a stunning wine. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2030.