Domaine de la Janasse, Chateauneuf-du-Pape, Vieilles Vignes 2011

And a candidate for the wine of the vintage, the 2011 Chateauneuf du Pape Vieilles Vignes is always a rough blend of 85% Grenache and the balance Syrah, Mourvedre, Clairette and other permitted varieties, that has the Grenache aged all in foudre and the Syrah and Mourvedre aged in one-third new barrels that's less than 6% of the blend in new barrels). Exhibiting gorgeous black fruits, spice-box, toast, licorice and roasted meat-like qualities on the nose, it is full-bodied, concentrated and layered on the palate, with loads of texture, yet delivers no weight, heat, or ever puts a foot wrong. Shockingly good in the vintage, it should not be missed. Hats off to Christophe and Isabelle. Drink now-2027.

The same thing is true for its sibling, the 2011 Chateauneuf du Pape Vieilles Vignes. This cuvee comes from four parcels of the estate’s oldest vines, and tends to be 80% Grenache, 15% Mourvedre and 5% Syrah. The Grenache is always aged in foudre and the other cepages aged in small oak. The three terroirs include Les Soumades primarily red clay soils), La Crau, old vines near Chateau Beaucastel, and the terroir after which this estate is named, Janasse, which is primarily clay and limestone covered by the thick carpet of stones known as the galets roules. Achieving 16.5% natural alcohol in 2011 was no easy task, but this wine is not the least bit hot. Full-bodied, intense and opulent, it may be the wine of the vintage, not only in Chateauneuf du Pape, but in all of southern France. This amazing effort transcends the vintage. It is a tribute to the extraordinary viticultural and winemaking perfection/obsession of Christophe and Isabelle Sabon and their father. This black/purple-hued 2011 exhibits lots of cassis, floral, black raspberry and kirsch characteristics as well as potential longevity of 10-15 years or longer. It is an amazing effort for the vintage!

Janasse owns over 40 acres in Chateauneuf du Pape as well as significant holdings in the Cotes du Rhone appellations. The consistency at this estate since the mid-1990s has been remarkable. Year in and year out, the wines, both reds and whites, are among the finest one will find ... anywhere! 2011 is consistently a top vintage at Janasse, even though it is by no means a great vintage in the southern Rhone, and their prodigious 2010s compete with their remarkable array of 2007s and 2009s. First, the 2011s, a challenging year that depended on vignerons making strict selections, not only in the vineyard, but also on the triage tables. Sabon has certainly done that. Janasse’s white Chateauneuf du Papes are fascinating as Sabon is one of the last producers to still do a 100% malolactic fermentation and no filtration. 2010 rivals 2007 as the two greatest vintages I have ever tasted at Domaine de la Janasse and I’ve been tasting their wines for over two decades).