Clos Fourtet Premier Grand Cru Classe B, Saint-Emilion Grand Cru 2012

The 2012 Clos Fourtet is deep, fleshy and quite seductive. Sweet red cherry, plum, dried flowers, sage and rosemary flesh out in a pretty, gracious Clos Fourtet that offers lovely balance to match its mid-weight, restrained personality. This is a lovely showing, and a wine that should drink well with minimal cellaring. The 2012 preserves lovely freshness, but it should also drink well with minimal cellaring. There is plenty to admire, that much is sure. The 2012 is 86% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon and 4% Cabernet Franc that spent 18 months in French oak, 60% new.

Having just had the 2003 and 2005 from my cellar, I can attest to the magnificent turnaround in quality this famous estate on the eastern side of St.-Emilion has achieved. All of it is attributable to its dynamic proprietor, Philippe Cuvelier. The 2012 Clos Fourtet (usually 85% Merlot and 15% Cabernet Franc) has beautiful blackberry and blueberry fruit and an inky purple color. With flawless integration of acidity, tannin, wood and alcohol, a full-bodied mouthfeel and stunning richness, this is impressive and certainly one of the vintage's top wines. It should evolve beautifully for 15-20 years, and be drinkable in 3-4. Yields were a modest 32 hectoliters per hectare with the alcohol at 14%.

The 2012 Clos Fourtet was picked October 9 to 17 at 36 hl/ha. It is a wine that has been a bit variable over the years, though this is a better example. It is very lively on the nose, with scents of blueberry, raspberry and orange pith, a subtle note of mint coming through with time. It opens beautifully in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with hints of dark chocolate and espresso, plenty of dark berry fruit and a keen thread of acidity. There's good substance, though not a tannic Clos Fourtet. This is drinking extremely well right now and is certainly better than the bottle at the 10-Years-On tasting. Tasted at the Clos Fourtet vertical in April 2023.

Ruby-red. Expressive aromas of raspberry, dark chocolate and sexy oak. Lush on entry, then rich, vinous and deep, displaying very good balance and rich dark fruit and herb flavors. Finishes with serious but even tannins and very good persistence. This brooding wine has real potential in the context of a tough vintage.