Domaine du Comte Liger Belair, La Romanee Grand Cru 2012

Sweet, succulent red cherries, plums, mint, spices, violets and rose petals hit the palate in the 2012 La Romanée, a wine built on pure, visceral intensity. A huge mid-palate and explosive finish round things out in grand style, but what I admire most about the 2012 is the constant push and pull of finesse and power. There are a number of compelling wines in this tasting, the 2012 is at or near the top of the list. Readers who have the possibility of acquiring a few bottles of the 2012 should not hesitate, as it is truly a wine for kings and queens.

Tasted blind at the annual Burgfest tasting in Beaune. The 2012 La Romanée Grand Cru from Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair has a slightly reduced bouquet, a little meatiness coming through, touches of Provençal herbs and that palpable sense of mineralité. The palate is medium-bodied with lace-like but tensile tannin, exquisite poise, feminine and elegant, gradually building to a very composed finish with beautifully integrated oak. This feels so weightless in the mouth, yet there is wonderful intensity and intellect. Certainly, this is one of the wines of the vintage.