Roger Sabon, Chateauneuf-du-Pape, Le Secret des Sabon 2012

The top wine of the estate is the 2012 Châteauneuf du Pape le Secret de Sabon, and the inky-colored 2012 is a brilliant effort. I don't think it hits the heights of the 2010, 2007 or 2001, but it's still a singular expression of Grenache that could come from nowhere else, and is distinctly different from the three prior Châteauneufs. Possessing a sweet nose of ripe raspberries, kirsch, garrigue and licorice, this beauty hits the palate with full-bodied richness, tons of glycerol and texture, sweet tannin and moderate acidity. It's already approachable, yet I suspect will improve with another handful of years in the cellar and drink well through 2027 at a minimum.

Bright ruby. A complex, intensely perfumed bouquet displays scents of black raspberry, cherry-cola, Asian spices and floral oils, with a smoky mineral note emerging with air. Stains the palate with vibrant red and dark berry flavors, with juicy acidity and a jolt of white pepper providing focus and lift. Wonderfully balanced and deep, finishing with serious power and smooth tannins that are quickly absorbed by the wine's sappy fruit.