Chateau Haut-Brion Premier Cru Classe, Pessac-Leognan 2013

This is very, very long and intense with velvety tannins and plenty of sweet tobacco, cedar and dark berry aromas and flavors. Already open and delicious to drink. This is difficult to say it’s 2013. Fantastic for the vintage. Only 45% of the normal production.

Looking back at my En Primeur notes, I wrote 'just love Haut-Brion in difficult vintages, always such a lesson in expert winemaking', and I stand by that comment at the 10 years mark. This is gorgeous, with a density of fruit that elevates it above most. Clear woodsmoke and charcoal twist, with grip and even a hint of length. Characterful and although again we are in drinking window territory, and this is a great opportunity to open and enjoy a 1st growth within living memory of buying it En Primeur if you did so. 45% of production in this wine.

The 2013 Haut-Brion is medium garnet in color. It reveals notions of dried Provence herbs, graphite, and cedar to begin, opening out to a core of stewed red and black plums and dried mulberries plus a touch of tobacco leaf. The medium-bodied palate is beautifully knit, with loads of black fruit and savory nuances framed by fine-grained tannins, finishing with a lively skip in its step.

The 2013 Haut-Brion offers light loam and forest floor scents, missing its usual fruit intensity as you would expect, though it presents pressed flower and dry tobacco with further aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins. Cohesive with a little more body than La Mission, this has a finely-tuned, pure finish with clove and white pepper hints. This is persistent on the finish in the context of the season. Classy. Tasted at Bordeaux Index's 10-Year On tasting.

Smoke, tobacco, incense and game meld into a core of black stone fruits as the 2013 Haut-Brion shows off its personality. Like most of the reds in this range, the 2013 really needs time in the glass to blossom. Violets, lavender and melted road tar develop over time in a striking, vivid wine endowed with class as well as considerable potential. Haut-Brion is one of the more overtly muscular, broad-shouldered wines of the year. It will be interesting to see what time in barrel brings, but there is a lot to look forward to. The 2013 is 50% Merlot, 45.5% Cabernet Sauvignon and 4.5% Cabernet Franc.