Clos Mogador, Gratallops, Priorat 2013

One of only two Vins de Finca Qualificada from Priorat, the 2013 Clos Mogador is a complex blend of Garnacha and Cariena with a touch of Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon. It felt serious and a little backward, terribly balanced with shy notes of peat and graphite emerging with some time in the glass, subtle and complex, slowly revealing nuances of dark cherries, violets, black olives and later some red fruit. The palate is surprising: when I expected it to show its power, it just whispered and danced on my tongue with lively acidity that made it feel a lot lighter than it is. There is depth, elegance and incipient complexity. Here everything is in perfect harmony, with lots of everything, dry extract, acidity, alcohol and tannin, but somehow you don't notice any of it. A remarkable vintage of Mogador. Given the quality, the price seems like a bargain, and availability shouldn't be too bad either, as some 28,000 bottles were filled in June 2015. Put it aside in your cellar, because this is a 20-year bottle of Priorat.