Taittinger, Comtes de Champagne Blanc de Blancs 2013

Fantastic complexity here with aromas of toast, biscuit, lemon, almond, chalk and some fennel. It's long, sleek and mineral, with tight, very fine bubbles and so much tension and precision. Very long and chalky finish. Disgorged end of 2023. Drink or hold.

Taittinger’s 2013 Blanc de Blancs Comtes de Champagne, disgorged in December 2023 with a dosage of nine grams per liter, is well worth seeking out. Derived from a long, slow ripening season marked by cool nights and an October harvest, it is slightly less acid-driven and a touch fleshier than the 2008, offering up a deep bouquet of nashi pear, lemon confit, freshly baked bread, almond paste and a gentle smoky reduction edge. On the palate, it is full-bodied and incisive, with a concentrated core of fruit, bright acids and considerable tension, culminating in a persistent, saline finish. While already indicative of its potential, its best days are still ahead, and it should continue to improve over the next two decades or more. Choosing a favorite between the 2013 and 2014 will be difficult, as both are strong editions of Comtes.