Charles Heidsieck, Blanc des Millenaires Brut 2014

A compacted, dense blanc de blancs with real intensity, showing tarte tatin and sliced white peaches. Full-bodied. A lovely combination of dried apples, pie crust and underlying acidity. Some subtle brioche. Hints of cream and salted butter. From the villages of Le Mesnil-sur-Oger, Oger, Vertus, Cramant and Avize. 8.5 years on the lees. Dosage 9 g/L. Disgorged 2023. Drink now.

The 2014 Champagne Blanc Des Millenaires is a blend sourced from the five villages of Avize, Mesnil-sur-Oger, Oger, Cramant, and Vertus. It has fantastic salinity, with a refined pinpoint mousse, and is medium-bodied. Although it does not lack for concentration, it’s perfumed and floral, with notes of shortbread, fresh pastry, and vanilla. It’s a fabulous and enticing vintage with lots of clarity and focus. Mouthwatering and structured this is a class act that should have no problem aging another three or more decades.

Sourced from Vertus, Le Mesnil-sur-Oger, Oger, Avize and Cramant, the 2014 Blanc de Blancs Blanc des Millénaires—only the eighth release of this cuvée—was disgorged in 2023 with a dosage of 10 grams per liter. Unfurling with aromas of candied lemon zest, ripe pear, fresh hazelnut and peach, accented by a delicate roasted nuance, it is medium- to full-bodied, elegantly muscular and textural, with a rich fruit core, ripe yet lively acidity and ample chalky extract—more pronounced than in the 2007 rendition. Combining amplitude with freshness, it has turned out beautifully, though true complexity will demand several more years in the cellar.

A delicate, bright and serene edition of one of Champagne’s top, if lesser-known, prestige blanc de blancs, emphasising purity over creamy richness. Plenty of ripe aromatics, with fragrant apricot, mandarin, some fresh mango playing with hazelnut and coffee macaron complexity. There’s a calm insistence to the palate, closer to the 2004 than the tension and drama of 2007 or the generosity of 2006. Seems set to be one of the vintage’s top performers.