Fontodi, Flaccianello delle Pieve, Colli della Toscana Centrale 2014

The 2014 Flaccianello della Pieve will probably drink well a bit earlier than the Vigna del Sorbo, as it has more midpalate creaminess, softer contours and a slightly more immediate personality. Even so, the translucent finesse of the vintage is very much in evidence. A rush of black cherry, plum, tobacco, licorice, chocolate and spice infuses the sweet, creamy finish. The 2014 spent 18 months in oak (less than was once the norm), 80% of it new.

As we know, this was not an easy vintage. But Fontodi has a strong track record when it comes to turning out excellent wines, especially in the cold and soggy vintages such as this. The 2014 Flaccianello della Pieve is definitely thinner and more compact than the recent past editions that were largely driven by much warmer growing conditions and thicker concentration. This wine is instead ethereal and almost fragile with aromas that veer toward forest berry, wild cherry and rose hip. Giovanni Manetti says this challenging vintage gave Fontodi a chance to prove its mettle. The 2014 vintage aged in oak a bit longer than usual in order to give the wine more time to flesh out and gain in volume. Yields were down considerably in 2014, and there is 30% less Flaccianello in this vintage compared to average. What saves the day is the wine's fresh acidity. It acts like a glue, connecting all the various parts of this wine and infusing them tightly together to form a complete and compelling whole.