L'If, Saint-Emilion 2015

This is very intense and mineral on the palate with so much salt and white pepper character. Full and powerful. A great and structured L’If.

Jacques Thienpont's 2015 L'If has really come together over the last two years. Rich and full-bodied on the palate, with tremendous fruit density, the 2015 is beautifully layered from start to finish. Expressive aromatics lift over a core of black cherry, chocolate, spice, espresso and new French oak. This is a big, potent wine, and yet it also exudes nuance and delineation. Simply put, the 2015 L'If is superb.

The 2015 L'If, the sibling of Le Pin, of course, has a high-toned iodine-tinged bouquet with floral scents emerging with time. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy black fruit, gentle grip, nicely structured with an attractive cedar- and black-pepper-tinged finish that shows more weight and density than its peers. It is a little heady but it is still well crafted. Tasted blind at the Southwold 2015 Bordeaux tasting.

The 2015 L'If is a blend of 80% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Franc this year and it was matured in around 50% new oak. It has a very ravishing and opulent bouquet with macerated small red cherries, blueberry and a hint of powdered chocolate, probably from the new oak, and that seems to quickly dissipate. The palate is medium-bodied with crisp acidity, a pinch of white pepper, nicely structured and showing great style on the finish. "That's bloody good," commented Fiona Morrison behind me, and I would not disagree. In fact, over five to ten minutes, this Saint Emilion gained precision and harmony. This is a strong follow-up to the 2014, although let's wait until bottling to see if it is better.