Baricci Brunello di Montalcino 2016

Dark and animal in nature, the 2016 Brunello di Montalcino comes to life like a savage beast waking from a deep sleep, sleek yet still shaking off its slumber. Purple-tinged florals and herbal tones meet depths of dark mineral-tinged fruits and hints of animal musk. This is silky-smooth upon entry, yet it quickly gains in tension and poise, as grippy tannins come to the fore, slowly drying the tart wild berry fruits, while becoming spicy and more grippy with every sip. The cheeks pucker with residual tannic tension as this finishes painfully young yet long, with hints of licorice. The extra time in bottle has only propelled the 2016 even further than expected.

One of the few founding estates of the Brunello consorzio in 1967, Baricci is now in the hands of the third generation. If approaching this anytime soon, give it plenty of time in a decanter. Compelling and complex aromas of stone, leather, cinnamon and iron take time to surface. The palate is weighted but not weighty, with crisp red currant and red cherry flavours. It has a dusty Tuscan dirt road feel - pebbles and all - with commanding chalky tannins and a salty, mineral finish.