Chateau Certan de May, Pomerol 2016

The 2016 Certan de May is a powerful, dense wine, just as it was en primeur. A blast of grilled herbs, leather, smoke, tobacco, licorice and dark-fleshed fruits makes a strong opening statement. Potent and strap in feel, Certan de May shows the more virile side of Pomerol. The profile is decidedly sepia-toned. Readers should plan on being patient with the 2016. It is a jewel of a wine that just needs bottle age to be at its best.

Well balanced, getting to the sweet spot, plenty of luscious brambled fruit and crayon character, mouthwatering finish, easy to love, this is really one to crack open and share right now.

A blend of 65% Merlot, 31% Cabernet Franc and 4% Cabernet Sauvignon, the medium garnet-purple colored 2016 Certan de May offers up notes of wild blueberries, black cherries and raspberry leaves with hints of black tea, roses and tar. Medium-bodied, the palate delivers a wonderful quiet intensity of blue, red and black fruits plus a fine-grained backbone and superb freshness, delivery and very long, mineral-tinged finish.

The 2016 Certan de May was disappointingly skinny when I tasted it from barrel. It has put on weight during its élevage, as one expects, but trust me, this is not up there with the greatest wines from Certan de May. The bouquet is pleasant but does not go that extra mile, coming across a little green around the edges and missing some vigor. The palate is medium-bodied with fine, quite supple tannins and well-judged acidity. I appreciate the freshness here, but this does not deliver the complexity or terroir expression of the best vintages, or even some of its great successes in the 2000s. I know this Pomerol can do better.