Chateau Climens Premier Cru Classe, Barsac 2016

Pale lemon-gold colored, the 2016 Climens is a little youthfully mute, revealing notions of ripe peaches, mango and musk melon with touches of cedar chest, orange blossoms, candied ginger and baking bread. Bursting in the mouth with vibrant, energetic stone fruit and tropical layers, it is framed by fantastic freshness, finishing long and creamy.

Climens hold blending tastings every few weeks during maturation, and generally the final blend is made in the November of the year after harvest. Climens only needed two 'tries' through the vineyard here, which has been the case for two or three years as it goes so smoothly. The first tri took place on 20th September following 40mm of rain in mid September, which helped to kick-start the botrytis. The overall yield of around 20hl/ha mainly avoided mildew, and importantly proved that biodynamics can withstand difficult climatic conditions. They work with individual lots here to ensure the right balance, and tasting through several lots the homogeneity of quality is really impressive this year. The overall impression is of smooth citrus fruits with a succulent, velvety rich texture and a beautiful creaminess. There are toffee and nut notes and a gorgeous focus, with true salinity on the finish. The 3.7pH is very close to last year's acidity analysis.

The 2016 Climens has a wonderful bouquet similar to my last bottle, more expressive now with orange pith, wild honey and quince. Like before it opens wonderfully in the glass. The palate is very well balanced with fine definition, fresh and vibrant with a creamy honeyed texture, praline and apricot, on the seductive finish. Superb. Tasted at the Climens vertical at the château in April 2022.

I tasted the 2016 Climens from four separate lots identified by location, harvest dates, alcohol, residual sugar and the percentage each lot represents of the harvest. The four wines were remarkably different. The Nord was both plush and tropical-leaning, yet with notable freshness, while the Sud managed to be both deep and also light on its feet. I found the Ouest to be the most precise and aromatically lifted of the samples, while the Est was the most concentrated. A simple, impromptu blend of the four lots suggests the 2016 Climens is shaping up to be a magnificent Barsac. The interplay of the various components is quite remarkable.