Chateau Gazin, Pomerol 2016

Medium to deep garnet-purple in color, the 2016 Gazin features a beautifully perfumed nose of violets, Ceylon tea, cigar box, sandalwood and fallen leaves over a core of plum preserves, kirsch and blackberry preserves plus a waft of aniseed. Medium-bodied and elegant, with compelling restraint, it has a seductively plush texture, finishing with bags of poise, perfume and persistence.

Classic, almost savoury fruits here, among the most left bank in style of all the Pomerols with cassis and black pepper spice. It's a wine that steals up on you - I tasted it several times and became increasingly impressed by the construction and the measured delivery of excellence. A full 13% of Cabernets here, split between 5% Cabernet Franc and 8% Cabernet Sauvignon, the highest proportion of the latter for many years.

Tight and silky with plum, blackberry and blueberry character. Medium-to full-bodied, firm and silky. Very linear and bright. A pretty follow-up to the stupendous 2015.

The 2016 Gazin has a pure bouquet of luscious blackberry, black truffle and light smoky aromas that gain vigor with aeration. There is an unerring sense of control here, as if keeping something back for later. The palate is medium-bodied with very fine tannin, a silky-smooth texture and beguiling, graphite-tinged black fruit toward the refined, persistent finish. Flecks of clove linger on the finish. Classic Gazin. Tasted twice with consistent notes.

The 2016 Gazin has developed into a super-refined wine. Silky tannins and floral aromatics add to an impression of total finesse. Blood orange, sweet red/purplish berry fruit, rose petal and mint are all finely knit in this gracious, subtle Pomerol. More importantly, the 2016 has grown into an absolutely striking wine that is even more expressive and complete than it was from barrel.