Chateau Haut-Brion Premier Cru Classe, Pessac-Leognan 2016

The 2016 Haut-Brion is quite possibly even more magnificent from bottle than it was from barrel. Powerful and rich, yet not at all heavy, the 2016 is a wine of nearly indescribable beauty. Haut-Brion is often a thrilling wine, but it is rarely this finessed in its youth. Gravel, cured meat, tobacco and cedar are some of the many nuances that develop with air, but it is an extraordinary sense of harmony that really stands out. What a wine!

Drink 2026 - 2066

Stunning black fruit with plenty of forest berries in there, the whole picture cool and very delicate, also on the concentrated and highly structured palate. The tannins are very fine-grained but decisively austere, and together with the vibrant acidity, they propel the finish out towards infinity and leave a breathtaking final impression. A blend of 56 per cent merlot, 37.5 per cent cabernet sauvignon and 6.5 per cent cabernet franc. It has very long ageing potential, but you could try it in 2023.

This initially has a little more reticence on the nose than La Mission, but after a few minutes, the rich texture begins to reveal itself, with charcoal, tobacco, dark plum, and damson fruits straining at the leash. It has hidden power and subtle oak toasting - this clearly feels like there is no need to shout about its presence, but there will be plenty to discover over time. You can feel those tannins licking around your teeth, building up one layer at a time—a great wine, En Primeur, that has settled into greatness.

Drink 2026 - 2046

The 2016 Haut-Brion is blended of 56% Merlot, 37.5% Cabernet Sauvignon and 6.5% Cabernet Franc. Medium to deep garnet-purple coloured, the nose is at once profound and arresting, offering drop-dead gorgeous Morello cherries, lilacs, and red rose scents with a core of Black Forest cake, warm blackcurrants and blueberry preserves plus wafts of sandalwood and underbrush. Medium-bodied, the elegantly crafted palate is completely packed with intense floral, mineral and cassis-laced flavours with a firm frame of very finely pixelated tannins and seamless freshness, finishing very long and achingly stunning.

Drink 2025 - 2070

The 2016 Haut-Brion has a beguiling sense of purity on the nose, which features scents of blackberry, crushed violet petals, hints of dark chocolate and even a suggestion of fresh fig. Underneath all this is a seam of mineralité that becomes more conspicuous with aeration, tightening everything up. The palate is medium-bodied with filigreed tannin, a satiny texture, perfect acidity and incredible harmony. Everything here is in the right place. It is quite sensual in style, conveying an enthralling sense of delineation on the long finish. About as good as you will find in this vintage.

Drink 2026 - 2080

The blend in 2016 is 56% Merlot, 37.5% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 6.5% Cabernet Franc.

As to the reds, the 2016 Haut Brion is a prodigious, legendary wine in the making, although it’s not for those seeking instant gratification. Deeper coloured and more concentrated than the La Mission Haut Brion, it reveals a purple/ruby colour and a sensational bouquet of blackcurrants, cassis, cigar tobacco, cold fireplace, violets, and lead pencil. Deep, masculine, structured, and mineral-laced, it has a stacked mid-palate, full-bodied richness, building tannins, and a firm, blockbuster-styled finish that lasts nearly a minute. A wine for the ages, don’t even think about opening bottles for at least 7-8 years. It should keep for half a century.

Drink 2027 - 2077