Chateau Labegorce, Margaux 2016

A very elegant and polished Margaux with great structure and an attractive touch of herbal freshness, then a delicate touch of sweetness at the long, fine finish. A blend of 38 per cent cabernet sauvignon, 52 per cent merlot, six per cent cabernet franc and four per cent petit verdot.

From an estate on the uptick and showing beautifully on two separate occasions, the 2016 Château Labégorce is a head-turner of a Margaux that’s based on 52% Merlot, 38% Cabernet Sauvignon, and the rest Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot that was brought up in 45% new oak, with the balance in once-used barrels. Sexy notes of blackcurrants, black raspberries, crushed flowers, sandalwood, and incense all flow to a medium to full-bodied, fabulously textured Margaux that carries ripe tannins, loads of fruit and richness, and a great finish. Since arriving in 2009, Marjolaine de Coninck has resurrected this estate and the wines now play with the top in the appellation. Give bottles 3-5 years and enjoy over the following two decades or more.

Deep, rich extraction, black cherry in colour with very well controlled aromatics of damson and creamy cappuccino. This is a gorgeous wine and there are going to be many many fans of the contemporary but utterly controlled and well judged flavours on display here. Luscious and big, but everything has a reason for being where it is, nothing superfluous. One of the best ever from this property.

The 2016 Labégorce is composed of 52% Merlot, 38% Cabernet Sauvignon, 6% Cabernet Franc and 4% Petit Verdot, aged in 45% new and 55% one-year-old French oak barrels. Deep garnet-purple colored, it leaps out of the glass with gregarious cassis, kirsch and black raspberries, candied violets, dark chocolate and spearmint. Medium-bodied, elegant, fresh and with exciting intensity, it delivers a fantastically long, fragrant finish. 12,000 cases produced.

The 2016 Labégorce has a more introspective bouquet than its peers – a bashful Margaux, although with time I suspect it will gain more intensity. The palate is medium-bodied with grippy tannins, a little pinched toward the second half, with cedar and graphite on the aftertaste. Broody at the moment - cellaring required. Tasted blind at the Southwold tasting.

The 2016 Labégorce is a dense, potent wine. There is plenty of depth to the copious blackberry jam, plum and chocolate flavors. Rich and forward, the 2016 will drink well with minimal cellaring. I thought the 2016 was a bit more exciting from barrel, but this is nevertheless very nicely done.