Jean Foillard, Morgon, Cote du Py 2016

Crushed violets and attractive dark strawberries and raspberries on the nose with a slightly flinty, stony edge of graphite. The palate has depth and density, which set it apart from the Corcelette. More depth and richness here. A long, powerful and deep-set palate. Acidity holds the finish fresh. Needs a year or two. Drink from 2020.

Lurid ruby. An expansive, mineral-accented bouquet displays powerful red and dark berry, incense and potpourri qualities, and a Moroccan spice nuance adds urgency and lift. Bright, seamless and alluringly sweet, offering palate-staining black raspberry, blueberry, violet pastille and spicecake flavors that slowly firm up with aeration. Shows superb depth and clarity, with nary a rough edge to be found. Closes supple, sweet and insanely long, leaving a sexy floral note behind.

The 2016 Morgon Côte du Py is strikingly good, one of the best renditions of this benchmark cuvée in the last decade—in fact, I’ve already consumed the better part of a case. The wine bursts from the glass with a striking bouquet of rose petals, wild berries, dark chocolate and candied violets that’s beautifully projected and defined. On the palate, it’s medium to full-bodied, deep and layered, with an ample core of juicy fruit, melting tannins and a long, stony finish. Foillard told me that some 80,000 bottles were produced.