M. Chapoutier, Saint-Joseph, Le Clos 2016

Crème de cassis, graphite, gunpowder, lavender, and obvious crushed rock notes all emerge from the 2016 Saint Joseph Le Clos, which is the unquestionably one of the finest wines in the appellation. Coming from a higher elevation, east-facing block, brought up in 30% new barrels, it offers a Hermitage-like stature and level of structure, bright acidity, and a big finish. Young, backward, and in need of 5-7 years of bottle age, it's going to keep for 2+ decades.

Looking even better than it did last year, now that it's in the bottle, Chapoutier's 2016 Saint-Joseph Le Clos is impressive indeed. Classy notes of crushed stone and pencil shavings are joined by floral hints of violets, plus ripe cassis on the nose. Full-bodied, rich and concentrated, it comes across as dense yet not heavy (does that make any sense?), finishing with silky tannins and a tremendously long finish. It's a tour de force in Saint-Joseph, nearly equal in quality to Chapoutier's parcel-selection wines from across the river in Hermitage.

Deep lurid violet. Pungent, spice-laced black and blue fruit, floral, olive and smoked meat aromas, along with a building licorice quality. Stains the palate with deeply concentrated black currant, bitter cherry, violet pastille and smoky bacon flavors that turn sweeter on the back half. Solid, gripping tannins support a very long, chewy finish that emphatically echoes the floral and bacon notes.