Roger Sabon, Chateauneuf-du-Pape, Le Secret des Sabon 2016

Unquestionably the deepest, richest wine in the lineup, the 2016 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Le Secret des Sabon offers sensational notes of blackberries, cassis, crushed rocks, graphite, and bouquet garni. Full-bodied, ultra-fine, seamless, and pure, it has more elegance and purity than the 2010 and is reminiscent of the 2001. It's a gorgeous, extraordinary, layered, seamless Châteauneuf-du-Pape to drink over the coming two decades or more.

I tasted the 2016 Chateauneuf du Pape le Secret de Sabon blind, alongside the other 2016s from this fine estate, and failed to discern a huge difference between it and the impressive Prestige or Reserve bottlings. I don't doubt that time will prove my rating to be conservative, hence the + sign. Winemaker Didier Négron retained some stems in this cuvée, and they show for the moment in its slightly herbal-minty notes, but they're balanced by ripe Grenache fruit that suggests apricot and plum. Lavender and thyme join in on the creamy, lush finish of this full-bodied but elegant offering.

Lurid ruby. Ripe red berries, cherry liqueur and hints of musky herbs, vanilla and potpourri on the highly perfumed, mineral-accented nose. Palate-staining Chambord and cherry flavors show excellent clarity, supple texture and a hint of spicecake that builds slowly as the wine opens up. The energetic, seamless, impressively long finish repeats the floral and red fruit notes, while rounded tannins add shape and gentle closing grip.