San Polino, Brunello di Montalcino, Helichrysum 2016

Wow. This is really complex on the nose with black cherries, mushrooms, dried flowers and cedar. Some crushed stone and dry earth or tile. This is full-bodied and very layered with wonderful depth of fruit and creamy tannins. It’s focused and serene. Better than 2015. From organically grown grapes. Try in 2024 and onwards.

Helichrysum comes from the southeast, in the area of Podernovi where high altitudes counter the warmth. The vines are pruned closely to give low-yields of grapes with thick skins and less juice. More powerfully structured than the estate Brunello, this is mouthfilling and expansive. Baked asphalt and iron lend intrigue to youthfully exuberant plum and wild strawberry. The tannins seem to grab at every part of the mouth with a sandy, grainy texture, and the persistent finish features clove and allspice. Tons of energy here.

Exotic, spicy, enticing, sultry; these are just a few of the words that come to mind while taking in the bouquet of the 2016 Brunello di Montalcino Helichuyrum. Sour cherries mix with mint, sage, cedar dust and white smoke to form a seductive display. It’s velvety in texture with ripe polished fruits that seem to come in waves, each time building more and more tension as minerals and fine tannins slowly saturate. The sheer density here nearly masks its structural heft, which is not to say that this lacks balance; in fact, the 2016 Helichuyrum is in perfect form. Lavender, blackberry and a hint of licorice linger long through the dark and dramatic finale.

Made with certified organic fruit, the 2016 Brunello di Montalcino Helichrysum opens to full-bodied richness and concentration. It reveals a dark and velvety side to Sangiovese, and it shows the latitude of the grape, thanks to its fresh acidity and tannic structure. This special selection (with 6,000 bottles made) will benefit from more years in the cellar, but among these new Brunello releases from 2016, this wine should also perform nicely in a near or medium-term drinking scenario, maybe at your favorite Italian restaurant with ravioli in wild boar sauce.