Chambertin, Grand Cru, Domaine Denis Mortet, Burgundy 2017

The 2017 Chambertin Grand Cru contains 40-50% whole bunches and is matured in 100% new oak the only cuvée to do so.) It has quite an intense bouquet and as you would expect, the new wood is expressed as much as the fruit at the moment. With time, scents of tobacco and undergrowth emerge. The palate is very well balanced with grippy tannin, quite saline in the mouth with plenty of tightly-wound, detailed black fruit towards the lengthy finish. It will require several years in bottle but will be worth the wait.

Drink 2023 - 2045

There are three new barrels of the 2017 Chambertin Grand Cru, an integrated but reserved wine that offers up notes of dried rose petals, grilled meats, espresso roast and sweet berries. On the palate, it's full-bodied, ample and satiny, with excellent depth and a tight-knit core that's framed by a fine but firm chassis of structuring tannins. Less forthcoming than the Mazis-Chambertin and Bonnes-Mares, it likely also has a longer future.