Chateau Canon la Gaffeliere Premier Grand Cru Classe B, Saint-Emilion Grand Cru 2017

The 2017 Canon La Gaffelière is another highlight in this range from Stephan von Neipperg. Bright, floral and punchy, the 2017 impresses for its energy and drive. Dried rose petal, mint, sage, tobacco, cedar and licorice add pretty top notes to this highly nuanced, layered Saint-Émilion. The Cabernet Franc is so expressive here. Quite simply, the 2017 is a wine of pure and total finesse. Tasted two times.

This is really excellent for the vintage with wonderful density of fruit in terms of plum liqueur and creme de cassis. The palate’s plush but velvety with round tannins and a long finish. Should drink fabulously when young. So generous but silky and dialed-in.

Incorporating plenty of second-generation grapes, the deep purple-hued 2017 Chateau Canon-La-Gaffeliere checks in as 60% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Franc, and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon. It's a fresher, racier Saint-Emilion that has good acidity, fine tannins, and medium body, yet good concentration and balance. Give this outstanding 2017 4-6 years, and it will keep for at least two decades.

Composed of 60% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Franc and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, the 2017 Canon la Gaffeliere contains a large part of second-generation fruit because 65% of the crop was affected by frost. Deep garnet-purple in color, it has pronounced crème de cassis, blueberry pie, red currants and red plums notes with touches of Chinese five spice, fragrant earth, tapenade and tobacco. The palate is medium-bodied with nice firm tannins giving a sturdy frame along with plenty of freshness supporting great mid-palate density, finishing long and earthy.

The 2017 Canon-la-Gaffelière is a wine that, when examined it out of barrel I felt suffered from frost damage. Now in bottle, I still feel that the aromatics lack the flair and joie-de-vivre associated with this Saint-Émilion, coming across reticent and missing some punch. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, fresh and vibrant, perhaps more so when I tasted out of barrel. I feel this Saint-Émilion has improved since its bottling in May 2019, although I uphold the view that it lacks the complexity and intensity of the best vintages. But hey, you can’t win ‘em all.