M. Chapoutier, Hermitage, l'Ermite Blanc 2017

As in 2016, my favorite of the white parcel selections this year is the 2017 Ermitage l'Ermite Blanc 231 cases produced), as it perfectly balances richness and power with refinement and structure. Toasted brioche and citrus marmalade, honey and truffle notes deliver sheer full-bodied, mouth-filling decadence, supported by austere notes of crushed granite, zesty grapefruit rind and cooling brine. Huge and intense yet refreshing, it's the essence of granite-grown Marsanne.

Drink 2018-2040.