Pio Cesare, Barolo, Ornato 2017

Extremely perfumed with dark berries, cherries, strawberries and crushed stones. Full-bodied with chewy, polished tannins that are muscular. Fantastic structure to this young Barolo, as well as great length. It grows on the palate with ease. Truly impressive. Incredible. Try after 2025.

The 2017 Barolo Ornato offers a bit more mid-palate density and volume than the Mosconi tasted alongside it. Like that wine, it is an infant that will need time to truly blossom. Sweet red cherry, sage, mint, rosewater and dried flowers lend striking intrigue throughout. The Ornato is a super-impressive wine that shows the more finessed style Pio Cesare has been pursuing over the last few years.

The very first single-vineyard Barolo produced by the family, first made in 1985, this is vinified in stainless steel tanks with moderate temperature control. It then undergoes maceration for 30 days and ageing in botti for about 30 months, with a small portion of the wine in French oak barriques for the first 12 months. Dark ruby in colour, it has aromas of raspberry, rose, violet, cherry, slatey minerality and graphite. The attack is subtle, the tannins polished, with an extracted mid-palate. Assertive acidity and an austere finish are balanced by fragrant cherry fruit and a liquorice aftertaste.

With fruit from the village of Serralunga d'Alba, the Pio Cesare 2017 Barolo Ornato exhibits a richer textural style and more concentrated fruit flavors compared to all the other Nebbiolo-based wines in this portfolio. Dark cassis and blackberry segue to black licorice and tarry smoke. Those signature hints of rusty nail, earth and candied orange peel that are so specific to this village are also quite evident. The wine shows structure and depth that will help it withstand extra cellar aging.