Taylor's, Vargellas Vinha Velha Vintage Port 2017

From the oldest vines on the estate, five plots with some vines planted over a century ago: not quite as deep in colour as most of the wines here; still demure on the nose, underlying brambly fruit, more delicate in style; lovely sweet cassis-like fruit on the palate backed by fine grained tannins, beautifully defined, not especially big but gloriously seductive with a long dusty-gravelly tannic finish. Very fine.

The 2017 Taylor’s Vargellas Vinha Velha Vintage Port represents only the eighth release. It comes from 80 to 120-year old vines located in five parcels (Polverinho, Renova do Depósito, Renova do Armazém, Gricha and Vinha Grande) that were picked from September 1. It has a ripe and sensual, playful bouquet with ripe fig and damson bursting from the glass. Fine definition here, real depth and complexity as it reveals subtle melted tar and bayleaf aromas with continued aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with saturated tannins. This feels lush and rounded with black pepper, clove and tobacco notes infusing the black fruit, long and sensual towards the finish. Perhaps I have a slight preference for the regular Taylor’s, but this is going to be fascinating to monitor during its evolution in bottle. Total production is 5,600 bottles.