Chateau Haut-Brion Premier Cru Classe, Pessac-Leognan 2018

The 2018 Haut-Brion is composed of 49.4% Merlot, 38.7% Cabernet Sauvignon and 11.9% Cabernet Franc. 

Deep garnet-purple in colour, the wine needs a lot of swirling before it begins to release a whole complex melody of notes, one at a time to begin: tilled earth, followed by pronounced liquorice, then crushed rocks, then the preserved plums. Eventually, it all comes together into a fascinating crescendo of intense crème de cassis, rose oil, wild blueberries and kirsch notes, giving way to quiet, persistent leitmotif scents of cinnamon stick, truffles and redcurrant jelly. 

The medium to full-bodied palate delivers all this and more, revealing tightly wound black fruit, red berry and exotic spice layers within a solid, wonderfully plush frame and seamless freshness, finishing with epic length and loads of earth and mineral sparks. This is a profound, highly intellectual, multilayered baby, which will require a good 7-8 years to begin to sing its incredible song, then should cellar a further 40 years at least. By way of reference, think of 1989 with more restraint and even greater purity.

Drink 2028 - 2068

Aromas of currants, leaves, fresh mushrooms, oyster shell, tobacco, and dried flowers, following through to a full body, yet ever so refined and polished and it grows on the palate. Lovely, energetic finish. Subtle and driven at the end of the palate. 

Drink in 2026 and onwards

A quintessential expression of this terroir, the 2018 Château Haut-Brion checks in as 49.4% Merlot, 38.7% Cabernet Sauvignon and the balance Cabernet Franc brought up in a mix of new and used barrels. Ripe and sexy, yet also offering subtle aromas and flavors of blackcurrants, smoked earth, tobacco leaf, truffle, lead pencil, and minerals, it takes its time opening up but reveals a full-bodied, concentrated, multi-layered style carrying gorgeous tannins, flawless balance, and just a wonderful symmetry and elegance paired with beautiful richness. This noble, gorgeous Haut-Brion will benefit from 7-8 years of bottle age and cruise for 40 years or so.

Drink 2028 - 2068

Another stellar vintage for this always elegant first growth. Despite a stormy spring and May hailstorm, September harvest conditions were ideal. What stands out for me is the elegance, intense purity and a juicy, vibrant freshness that seems to be the hallmark of the vintage. It's generous, velvety and wonderfully complex, with aromas of tobacco, black truffle, and rich red and black fruit flavours.

Drink 2027 - 2050

Harvested from 6 September to 2 October, yields 44hl/ha. 3.8pH.

Fourth generation of the Dillon family at Haut-Brion today, overseeing the extremely challenging act of keeping a First Growth at the top of its game. This is laying down the gauntlet - powerfully built, complex and succulent layers of tight black fruits and grilled oak, overlaid with charcoal, cloves, tobacco, slate, sage and smoked earth, nuanced and unwilling to show its hand too soon. Needs a good five to eight years more, and will age for decades.

Drink 2028 - 2048

The 2018 Haut-Brion is an infant, but its balance and potential are both amply evident. Rich and deep in the glass, the 2018 opens to reveal tremendous complexity and nuance, qualities that only grow with time. The 2018 is not a huge Haut-Brion, nor is it massively endowed, but it is so elegant and classy. I loved it.

Drink 2024 - 2058

The 2018 Haut-Brion was double decanted, assessed after two hours and then over 24 hours, initially blind against La Mission Haut-Brion. There is more red fruit on the nose compared to the La Mission Haut-Brion, wild strawberries commingling with raspberry, light tobacco scents and shavings of black truffle. The palate is medium-bodied and beautifully balanced with superb salinity. 

Maybe this is more elegant and seductive than the La Mission thanks to the killer line of acidity, though it has slightly less backbone and grip by comparison. Oddly, this First Growth is the most approachable of the pair. It has wonderful cohesion and harmony toward the precise, captivating finish. Superb. My hunch is that this will have wider appeal in its youth, and then the La Mission might put its nose in front after 15–20 years.

Drink 2024 - 2060