Chateau La Gaffeliere Premier Grand Cru Classe B, Saint-Emilion Grand Cru 2018

The 2018 La Gaffelière is hands down one of the wines of the vintage. Towering in its stature and vertical lift, the 2018 dazzles right out of the gate. Inky dark fruit, mocha, spice, licorice and leather all run through this deep, wonderfully pliant Saint-Émilion. The 2018 is rich, deep and beautifully resonant, with tremendous depth and tons of stature that builds, all framed by beams of supporting minerality that confer vibrancy. La Gaffelière is distinctive, alluring and arresting right out of the gate. It is another magnificent showing from this reborn estate. The blend is 63% Merlot and 37% Cabernet Franc. Magnifique!

Medium to deep garnet-purple in color, the 2018 La Gaffeliere is a little closed to begin, slowly unfurling to offer peeks at notions of stewed red and black plums, mulberries and Morello cherries, plus hints of damp earth, tar and bouquet garni. Medium to full-bodied, the palate is tightly wound, delivering crunchy red and black fruits with an approachable texture of fine-grained tannins and loads of freshness, finishing long with a lifted perfume. This is a refreshing, beautifully perfumed and skillfully crafted expression of the vintage. Give it 4-5 years in bottle and then enjoy it over the next 20 years+.

You can feel the excitement building around this estate following extensive replanting and refocussing. The frost of 2017 changed the blend a little, and they decided to stick with it as they liked the results so much - meaning they are using less of the vineyard for the grand vin. Whatever they are doing, it works. This has rich creaminess through the mid-palate that balances the austerity and salinity of the limestone terroir, and the brambled autumnal fruit is ripe and very much to the fore. It's a delicious, complex yet pared-back wine with layers of tannin that cradle rather than crush. A brilliant Gaffeliere. I tasted the individual components at the estate a few weeks ago, and it's great to see how they've assembled the final blend. Harvested between 10 September and 9 October. 60% new oak. 3.57pH. IPT 76.

The blue-fruit and sea-salt character is fascinating in this. Full-bodied yet tight and very focused. It really lasts for minutes on the palate. Forceful but full of finesse as well.

The 2018 La Gaffelière remains quite backward on the nose; the aromatics are biding their time but will be very attractive, offering pure black cherry, bilberry and light marine aromas that are very well defined. The palate is underpinned by fine, almost filigreed tannins and a superb bead of acidity. This La Gaffelière is harmonious on the finish with seamlessly integrated oak. It should mature beautifully over the next 20–30 years and evolve into one of the standout Saint-Émilions of this vintage.

The grand vin of the estate, the 2018 Château La Gaffelière is a brilliant wine offering pure crème de cassis and black raspberry fruits as well as fabulous minerality. Medium to full-bodied, seamless, and elegant on the palate, it’s not a blockbuster but shines for its purity, balance, and just gorgeous texture. It will drink well with 4-5 years of bottle age and keep for two decades.